Tuesday 13 June 2017

Tuesday June 13 - Feels like April 13 tonight, with temps in the 6 degree range. We thought we should do a walk after dinner (delicious fresh cod that G cooked to perfection), but when we got to the entrance of the park, we settled for a nice chat with the owners, who are really nice folks. They are concerned about the cold, as it is affecting business somewhat, and also the husband's comfort level as he does his work around the park. He dresses in longjohns every morning to deal with the cold temps. His wife thinks the pack ice up north is partly to blame for  the cold conditions. We looked up a possible place for tomorrow night, La Skie, and read of three crab boats that got stuck in the ice pack. One boat went down, the crew rescued by helicopter. The other two spent two days trapped before the wind shifted, moved the ice around enough that they could get home. Unusual. but there's just a lot of ice in the area to the north, and it may last for some time. The captain of the downed boat was not too happy with the Coast Guard, as he felt they could have come in to help him get through the ice. Lost boat...no work...families affected.

So we're heading east tomorrow, and will decide whether or not to try a local village north of the TCH, or just keep goin' looking for warmer temps.

Meanwhile, we had a fine day yesterday, going from cold (boat trip) to hot (music). We walked the three k's into the docks where the boats are moored, ready for the trip into Western Brook Pond. Despite the wind and waves, there were two boats ready to go, and a big crowd of people waiting to board. We were really surprised at how many fellow tourists there were, given the time of year. But lots of folks, so off we went. The water was rough, so lots of spray, but once we got into the confines of the pond, it was calmer. And so beautiful, with 700 metre cliffs enclosing this wondrous lake. It's not classed as a fjord, because it's fresh water, having been cut off from the sea who knows how long ago. Fed by many beautiful waterfalls, it maintains its depth easily, reaching 300 feet in places. All of it a result of glacial action millenia ago. If ever you are in Gros Morne, don't miss this opportunity. Not cheap, at $62. per person, but well worth it.

Coming back out of the pond was rough and cold, so we gave up our seats on the back deck, and hovered inside the cabin as we made our way across open water to the dock-site. It was cold, but we were okay, huddled inside the doorway, watching the spray throw water into the back deck. After a quick bite in their very inviting canteen, we headed back, taking a loop trail through interesting old dwarf evergreens that added a couple of k's to the walk. Twisted trees, evidence of moose, mossy undergrowth, gaunt dead trees stretching up above the path, and no one on the trail but us'ns. Contrast to the main trail, which was very busy in the morning.

Top off the day, you say. We did, by going to the Anchors Aweigh show at the local hotel. We did the show three years ago, and had such fun, we had to do it again. As usual, the show was sold out, and a fine time was had by all. This band has been doing their thing for 21 years now, and the format has changed only a little during that time. Good musicians, entertainers, singers, doing fun stuff, traditional Newfoundland music, and tunes written by other Canadians. Three hours of fun. If you have Spotify or any other music source, check the group out: Anchors Aweigh.

Today was cloudy, quite cool and rainy, so we slept in, did computer stuff, and then ventured over to Norris Point, where we had been told whales were often sighted. None today for us, as it poured rain most of the time we were there. But fortunately, there's a Marine Research Center there, operated by the government and Memorial U, so we spent quite awhile going through their displays, and watching a lengthy video depicting all manner of strange sea life.

Finally we stopped back at the park info center, and had our plan to move east confirmed as wise by the insightful young warden there. She agreed...go east for a week or so, then come back when it might be much warmer. Maybe by then the pack ice will have moved along. That's the plan.

So stay tuned. More later.

1 comment:

  1. Sorry to hear about your cooler temperatures. Still, you've got some great stories and great travels. You're seeing so much! You talked about Western Brook Pond...Tom and his buddies did this as well. They loved it. Tom and I hoping to get to Newfoundland in 2018 (a year before DND Reunion), so I'm keeping all of your blog notes for future reference. Thanks for all of that! Betty and Tom xoxo

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